Dongdaemun, even in shopping-mad Seoul, is full of places to shop--from swish department stores to ramshackle market stalls. And full too of great places to eat! And we had a Korean classic there, barbecued meat, but not your usual burnt offering. Here it's deliciously tender deboned marinated pork ribs, cooked over charcoal at our table, cut into small pieces when cooked and eaten wrapped in lettuce leaves, with all kinds of tasty side dishes, condiments and sauces added, from thinly-sliced garlic to kimchi, thinly-sliced radish to (very hot!) green chillis. Perfect!