Saturday, December 31, 2011

Xavier and Joe's Bloody Mary oyster shots


Another lovely thing we had at Christmas, but which is great for New Year or indeed any celebration, are Bloody Mary oyster shots, freshly-shucked oysters presented on a bed of coarse sea salt, clustered around a potent and tasty Bloody Mary oyster shot. This stunning looking dish was a combined effort by my son Xavier and son-in-law Joe.
Xavier's recipe for Bloody Mary:
Tomato juice
Good vodka(we used Russian Standard)
Lemon
Tabasco
Worcester sauce
Salt, pepper
Celery(to decorate, can also be used as an edible swizzle stick!)
Mix together in cocktail shaker(quantities as required, to taste). Serve very cold in small glasses with a fresh oyster down the bottom of each glass. Knock it back in one!

Friday, December 30, 2011

Pippa's delicious salmon gravlax


One of the beautiful dishes we had at Christmas this year, but which can be enjoyed at any time of the year, was my daughter Pippa's beautiful home-made salmon gravlax, cured in salt, sugar, and fresh grated beetroot and orange juice. It looked spectacular with its dark red underside, tasted fantastic, and was prepared in minutes(though you need to leave it for 24 hours to cure before serving).
Here's her recipe, with quantities suitable for a half-side of fresh salmon(skin off).
You need three grated beetroots and 3 juiced and zested oranges. Mix together with some sprigs of dill and pop it in a long china or glass dish big enough to hold the salmon. Then mix 100 g of sea salt(coarse)and 3/4 caster(fine) sugar and coat fish in it, pressing it in on both sides. Then put salmon on top of beet/orange mixture, cover with plastic wrap and keep in the fridge for 24 hours. The next day, take it out, wipe off any excess salt/sugar with a cloth , take the salmon out of the dish and slice it thinly to serve. Serve it with sliced Spanish onions, thinly sliced cucumber, and a cream cheese and caper mix on the side.

Writers and editors on food 13: Meredith Costain



A new post in my guest series, featuring a deliciously simple recipe to see in the New Year!

Meredith Costain is a children’s author who lives in inner-city Melbourne with her partner – publisher and YA author Paul Collins – and a menagerie of pets, who frequently wrangle their way into her poems and stories. Her books range from picture books through to novels and non-fiction for older readers, and include Doodledum Dancing, Bed Tails, Dog Squad, A Year in Girl Hell, and novelisations of the TV show Dance Academy. She presents writing workshops for kids and adults around Australia and (when lucky enough to be invited) overseas. Visit her at www.meredithcostain.com

This is a quick and easy recipe that you can have on the table in just over 20 minutes. Don’t be too worried about quantities and times – just throw it all together and serve when it looks ready!

Atlantic salmon with sesame seeds and ginger soy sauce

• 2 pieces of Atlantic salmon – skin off
• 3 tablespoons sesame seeds
• 1 tablespoon soft brown sugar
• knob of ginger, finely diced
• 1/3 cup soy sauce
• 1/2 cup water
• 2 handfuls of baby spinach leaves

1 Pan fry the salmon for about 3 minutes on each side, until it’s just starting to lose its pinkness in the middle.
2 Meanwhile, combine all other ingredients (except for the spinach) in a bowl.
3 When the salmon looks almost cooked, pour the sauce over the top and cook for another minute on each side (or to suit).
4 Sprinkle the baby spinach leaves over the top during this stage so they start to wilt.
5 Place the salmon and spinach leaves on the plate, leaving the sauce on a high heat for a few more moments to reduce and caramelise slightly.
6 Pour the sauce over the salmon.
7 Serve with boiled or steamed baby potatoes (with a litte dijonnaise for a French twist!) and green vegetables such as runner beans, snow peas or asparagus.
8 Enjoy!

Serves 2

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Our Christmas menus


Big family Christmas at our place this year. Lots of cooking! And on the menu is:

Dinner today(23rd):

Entrée: Shrimp rémoulade, using fresh Sydney tiger prawns, the rémoulade made with herbs from the garden, Saskia Beer's horseradish mix, Maille wholegrain mustard, and home-made mayonnaise made with our chooks' eggs.
Main course: Chicken in a basil, oregano and white wine sauce, with fresh home-made pasta, green vegs, and lots of salads. Cheeses, too, from a Stilton to a French goat cheese.
Dessert: Paris-Brest cake(beautiful choux pastry ring filled with butter cream and praline). One of David's specials.

Christmas Eve dinner:
Entrée(and appetisers): Chilled duck foie gras from south-west France, white anchovies, Hunter Valley cacciatore, all served with crackers and our own home-grown green olives.
Main: Barbecued meats with various marinades and sauces, home-made bread, lots of salads.
Dessert: Raspberry and strawberry charlotte, with whipped cream. Also David's creation.

Of course each day we'll also be having aperitifs--Tokay, muscat, kir, and/or cocktails, plus good wines to accompany everything(and we'll definitely be taking Deborah's suggestions from previous post!)For non-alcoholic drinks, there's also deliciously refreshing home-made elderflower pop.

Christmas Day lunch:
Will be a stupendous buffet, accompanied by cocktails, French champagne, and a selection of good wines from Australia and elsewhere!
Cold course: freshly-shucked oysters, home-cured side of salmon with beetroot and orange glaze, cream cheese and dill side, with rye bread or crackers, and our butcher's lovely ham, served with home-made mango salsa(mangoes from Stanthorpe in Queensland).
Hot course: Rare roast rump of beef sauce cassis et groseille(blackcurrant and redcurrant sauce), home-grown small potatoes sautéed in duck fat, home-grown steamed snow peas, selection of other green vegetables.
Salads: Mushroom, tomato and basil, mixed green salad, couscous and pomegranate salad.
Dessert: Buche de Noel frangourou-style(as below), and home-made Christmas cake featuring dried fruit soaked in armagnac. The first traditional French offering is made by me, the second traditional English offering by David, demonstrating the true entente cordiale in our family!
Super easy, super delicious frangourou Christmas Log cake
(requires no baking, can be made Christmas Eve).
This was my mother's invention, we had it every Christmas when we were kids, and I still make it every Christmas.
Ingredients:
1 packet sponge finger biscuits
200 g unsalted butter, melted
1 or 2 eggs(depending on how much mixture you have)
half to 3/4 cup hot strong sweet coffee(a good instant coffee works fine)
Cooking chocolate, melted with a little cream.
Crush all the biscuits, add the hot sweet coffee, the melted butter, and mix well. Add the slightly beaten egg(or two). You need to obtain a good stiff mix that you can easily shape into a log. That's what you do then--shape it into a log, and then put it in fridge till it is set. Meanwhile melt the chocolate over a low heat with a little cream, stir till all melted and glossy. Spread over the cake, on the top and sides. Put in fridge to set overnight. You can also decorate the top with angelica leaves, almonds, sugar holly, whatever you feel like!
To everyone I wish a wonderful Christmas, Hanukkah, and every other seasonal festivity, and a happy New Year! A bientot!

Monday, December 19, 2011

Holiday wine and food pairings: guest post by Deborah Gray





I'm very pleased to be bringing you today the first of an occasional guest series, covering a topic that goes ever so well with good food--good wine. It's written by wine expert Deborah Gray. Deborah, an Australian native, has spent the last twenty years importing Australian wines into the U.S., focusing on bringing small, high quality, family-owned brands to distributors, retailers and restaurants across the States. Her first book, How to Import Wine – an Insider’s Guide (Wine Appreciation Guild) published in August, 2011, has just been named “Best US Professional Wine Book 2011” by Gourmand Magazine. Her websites are at: www.howtoimportwine.com and www.bluestonewinesolutions.com she blogs at http://deborahgraywine.com


Her post today is on holiday food and wine pairings, and also includes a delicious mussels recipe.

Holiday Wine and Food Pairings
Conventional thinking used to say red wine with meat, white wine with fish, but we’ve moved far beyond that these days. The primary goal in enjoying wine and food together is to have the flavours play off one another, allowing each to show to best advantage. At their most sublime, food ingredients taste much more piquant and appetizing and wine will shine as its perfect complement. At its worst, wine can taste bitter and unbalanced and food is overwhelmed and tasteless.

Consider not just the main element, but also the way the dish is prepared. White fish with hearty ingredients, such as mushrooms and tomato based sauces can be overpowered by a light wine. In addition, if the dish is to be prepared with wine as an ingredient, a wine pairing of that same wine is often a great choice.

Salmon is a prime example of a food that can pair with quite diverse wines.

• With a béarnaise sauce, a Chardonnay aged in oak is heaven.
• Poached in good quality Sauvignon Blanc would fit hand in glove with the same Sauvignon Blanc.
• Grilled with a mustard glaze, cherry sauce or mushroom side picks up the classic flavours of Pinot Noir or Merlot.

Now to the holidays...I’m not going to make any one turkey wine pairing suggestion, because the Christmas holiday meal is chock full of incredibly diverse flavours – white and dark turkey meat, stuffing, cranberry sauce, vegetable with creamy sauces, casseroles and gravy. An assortment of reds and whites will go well with it all, depending upon your tastes and preferences: Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Shiraz, Beaujolais Nouveau, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, to name a few.

What I’d like to do is suggest some holiday bubbles that may not have come to mind before and makes a festive event of any occasion.

Prosecco, an Italian grape, made into a dry, sparkling wine is not only a less expensive alternative to Champagne, but absolutely delicious and fun its in own right. It can be enjoyed as an aperitif prior to the meal, served with a cheese platter, or paired with many of the same dishes as any brut white sparkling.

A particular favourite of mine is ceviche, a dish common to Latin American countries, where each region gives it its own flair utilizing lime, lemon or bitter orange to marinade fresh fish or shrimp. Ingredients are few, always fresh and usually include some form of chili pepper. In Mexico, street vendors serve it in paper cups from carts. The bright fresh flavours of Prosecco are the perfect accompaniment.

Sparkling Rosé, also brut (dry), is a versatile choice for many foods. I’ve included a recipe here that is not necessarily traditionally holiday, but illustrates that while mussels are the main ingredient, tomatoes and garlic give the Rosé its ideal pairing.

Mussels Steamed with Leeks, Tomatoes & Garlic

2 medium leeks
3 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 bay leaf
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
14.5oz can petite-diced tomatoes
2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
4 lb. mussels, scrubbed well

Trim dark leaves and root ends from the leeks. Split the leeks lengthwise and rinse them well under cold running water. Slice them crosswise into about ½ inch thick half-moons.

In a large, heavy pot, cook leeks, garlic and bay leaf in the oil over medium heat, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Sir in the tomatoes and their juices, tarragon and pepper flakes and simmer to meld flavours for 5 minutes. (This mixture can be prepared up to 3 hours ahead and left out at room temperature.)

When you’re ready to cook the mussels, return the leek mixture to a boil over high heat. Add the mussels, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mussels open, 3 to 8 minutes. Spoon the mussels, broth and vegetables into large bowls and serve with crusty artisan-style bread, sliced, for dipping in the broth. Serves four.

If I’m to continue the theme, may I throw out all the other turkey/wine matches and suggest a magnificent and inimitable Aussie Sparkling Shiraz?

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Writers and editors on food 12: Helen Evans



Helen Evans, a former teacher, lives in Armidale NSW and is a writer, storyteller and textile artist. As well as visiting early childhood centres each week as a storyteller, Helen runs the family gallery in Uralla, NSW, where examples of her textile art can be seen(as at right). For more details visit her website www.helenevanswriter.com.au

In this beautiful piece, Helen remembers childhood Christmases, and a favourite recipe.

Christmas dinner has always been the meal of the year for my family. Traditional British fare of baked vegetables and roast meat as the main course were what my Mother had grown up with, and she maintained that tradition all her life. We were lucky during the war years, that a cousin in the country used to bring in a hen, dressed in its feathers, for us. My brother removed the feathers on Christmas Eve and it rested in state in the meat safe that hung on the back veranda until Christmas morning when it would be stuffed with bread crumbs and herbs. Daybreak found us gathered excitedly on Mum’s bed to open parcels and then to play with the treasures until breakfast. As soon as that meal was over, it was time to make the Christmas pudding. My Dad, who was in Malaya from 1941 serving in the AIF, had never liked traditional Christmas pudding, so Mum made his favourite, a steamed date one accompanied by jelly, custard, stewed cherries, and cream. We three children always helped to make it. I stirred the jelly crystals, my sister beat the eggs for the date pudding, my brother cut the dates and measured them into small piles, each one an ounce, while Mum creamed the butter and sugar. We stood there expectantly to take turns in adding the ingredients at the right moment, to put in the three-penny and sixpenny bits, and to clean out the bowl when the mixture was transferred into the aluminum pudding bowl. Before the lid was secured, we had greased pieces of brown paper that Mum tied over the top of the bowl with string. The big old iron pot had been brought in from under the laundry tubs, and was by then bubbling and steaming on the gas stove. Mum carefully lowered the pudding bowl into the water and after adjusting the water level, that lid was also put in place. The pudding cooking, Mum put the chook in the baking pan to brown in the oven, then peeled potatoes, pumpkin, squash, carrots and stringed the beans. As the morning progressed the aroma of the food began to fill the house, something never to be forgotten. As there was no refrigerator, the red jelly was sitting in a dish of cool water in the coolest spot under the grape vine. We had decorated the dining room several days before, but for Christmas dinner, the special white damask cloth was put on the table and the precious silver cutlery came out from the sideboard. The pewter and glass tankards that Dad had sent from Malaya would be filled with lemonade and there was a dish of lollies and table raisins that Mum had found somewhere.



Serving the dinner was a nervous time for Mum. Would the meat be just right, would the vegetables lift from the baking pan, would the pudding be cooked through? We’d all be dressed in our best and waited quietly while Mum removed the dish from the oven and served up the meal in the kitchen. We carried our plates, all piled high, into the dining room and sat while grace was said. How we enjoyed those Christmas dinners. Our pudding plates were also filled generously and topped with thick cream skimmed from the boiled milk. Milk had to be boiled in order to keep it fresh. The pudding was always perfect and none of us swallowed the hidden money. We counted out our cherry stones to the old rhyme tinker tailor soldier sailor… My brother always managed a second helping, but then feeling so full, would have to let his belt out. Washing the dishes was also a family affair and the rest of the afternoon was for resting and reading.
Each of us has developed a new Christmas dinner tradition, but those far off Christmases still bring a smile to my face and no desert is more enjoyed by me than date pudding. The big old iron pot originally owned by my Grandmother, now lives under my laundry tubs and comes out each Christmas to cook the pudding. Here is the recipe for the date pudding.
Steamed Date Pudding
4oz butter
4oz sugar
2 eggs
8 oz dates
8 oz flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons milk
Pinch of salt

Cream butter and sugar and add well beaten eggs. Stir in milk, add dates (stoned and chopped). Sift flour, baking powder and salt and stir in very lightly. Turn into greased mould. Steam for three hours.

Writers and editors on food 11: Felicity Pulman



Felicity Pulman is an Australian author with an interest in crime, history and fantasy. Her novels Ghost Boy and the Shalott trilogy reflect her fascination with such possibilities as knowledge travelling through time, ghosts, parallel realities and reincarnation. Her very popular medieval crime series for older teenagers, The Janna Mysteries, indulges her love of crime, history, plants and herbal healing. Her short stories for adults have won several awards. Many have also been published, as have Felicity's numerous articles on various topics including writing and the creative process. Felicity is also a popular presenter at schools, conferences and writers festivals, where she talks about her work and/or gives workshops for students and budding authors.Her website is at www.felicitypulman.com.au

A lovely festive recipe from Felicity:
After growing up in Africa I found, when I got married, that I had to learn how to cook, keep house and later, look after children - a HUGE learning curve! We moved to Australia after we were married and for several years there were only two of us celebrating a rather lonely Christmas away from our families. A friend passed on this old family recipe for Christmas pudding - and for the first time I learned the difference between store bought and delicious homemade! Over the years our family has grown and I've had to double the quantity to make the pud. This year 17 family and extended family members will sit down to Christmas dinner at our place, with a new baby girl being our fifth grandchild. We are truly blessed in our family and our friends. May I wish you and yours a happy and blessed Christmas with your loved ones, and may all your wishes come true in the new year.
Christmas Pudding
500g mixed fruit; 1/4 cup brandy, 4 oz butter, 1 tsp Angostura bitters, 3/4 cup br sugar, 2 eggs, 1/4 cup chopped almonds, 1/2 cup grated carrot or apple, 1/2 cup flour, 1/4 tsp nutmeg, 1/2 tsp mxd spice & cinnamon, 1 cup soft (not new) breadcrumbs.
Method: prepare fruit the day before; soak overnight in brandy and bitters. Cream butter/sugar and add eggs one at a time, beating after each. Add almonds, carrot/apple and mix. Sift flour and spices, add with breadcrumbs to mxd fruit. Add to cream mixture, mix thoroughly. Butter pudding basin and place small square of butter paper at base. Spoon into basin and press down. Cover top with butter paper and double thickness foil. Tie lid down. Place in large saucepan with enough boiling water to come halfway up basin. Cover pot with lid and boil 4 hours. Remove foil to let steam escape. Replace when cool to store. On Christmas Day boil another two hours.
NB For family size pud and a bigger basin, I double the quantities, and boil for 5 hours, with another 3 hours on Xmas Day.
BRANDY BUTTER: Cream 125g butter; gradually add 2/3 cup icing sugar, then brandy to taste. Should be creamy, light and foamy. Chill. (Can also be served with store-bought brandy custard or brandy cream - all delicious!)